Hiss and Hearse

Amazing interview by Douglas Brinkely on Johnny Depp.

Photo by Ryan Brett Puckett, 2009

“I recommend that everybody dig deep to find their passion and strive to be the best doing that thing that drives you.”
-Amithyst

Five years ago, I met this lady when I lived in Sacramento and not only needed a fantastic hairdresser, but a photography partner, too. It all started with a desk lamp and gold light disk- we’d make art in her bathroom with the light reflecting on a model! Many nights have been spent drinking cocktails and philosophizing about life and fashion. Perhaps we are friends because both of us have an undying love for Betsey Johnson, polka dots, red lipstick and champagne. Recently Amithyst opened up her own salon, and it just made perfect sense in her career. She has come a long way and I am excited to see where she will go.

Name: Amithyst
Location: Amithyst Boutique Salon, Midtown Sacramento
Occupation: Salon Owner, Art/Creative Director, Architect of Hair

Who is the lady behind the hair? Why hair? Any secrets you want to share with us?
I graduated high school early and so all of my friends who were still in school would come to my house for me to do their hair and make up for the dances. They would get money from their parents to get it done professionally, but the parents never knew that I was really the one doing it! I guess it just came as a natural passion for me. My mom and grandmother would pay me to brush and play with their hair since I can remember. I never got my hair professionally coloured until I worked in a salon. I used to do bleach highlights painted on with a toothbrush, which actually turns out to be a very current process in colouring hair, and I use that technique now, just with a brush meant for color.

Photo by Kristin Cofer, 2009

Inspirations?
Odile Gilbert. She is an amazing French Hairdresser who does all of the high fashion hair for Gaultier, Galliano, and so many more. I would love to learn from her. My boyfriend photographer Ryan Brett Puckett is an inspiration to me because I love the way he sees things and he makes the most beautiful images. I try not to look at too many fashion based websites and magazines, though, because I don’t want to be too influenced and inspired by images I have already seen. I feel like I am more true to myself when I don’t have someone else’s photographs stuck in my head. I don’t ever want to be so inspired that I copy someone, even subconsciously.

Tell us about owning your own business? Is this the best thing you’ve ever done? Any advice for other people who want to do their own thing?
I am enjoying having my very own salon so far. At first it was lonely because I came from working with a large group of people at Spanish Fly Hair Garage*. Now that I am finally getting used to being alone, another hairdresser, Karli, is starting this week, so I will now have to adjust to having someone else always there. Having to do all of the little things I took for granted is interesting for sure, like laundry, and trash, and dishes. I really enjoy all of the little special things I can do for my clients now that I am in control of those kinds of things. I stock either strawberries or raspberries for each client’s beverage, which is usually champagne! Also I stock popcicles now that it’s summer, chocolates, sour patch straws, and perfume in the restroom for the clients to use before they exit the salon with their beautiful, shiny hair! I will be converting my other room into two more stations, so four of us in my space should be an adventure. I recommend that everybody dig deep to find their passion and strive to be the best doing that thing that drives you.

Photo by Ryan Brett Puckett, 2009

Favorite products?
Bumble and Bumble, of course. I am enjoying my Difiaba but do not know if I can carry it any longer. I think I am going to be carrying a mixture of things: Moroccan Oil Products, Pravana, possibly Davines. On myself, I use Bumble Surf Spray on towel dried hair and then blow dry.

When did you start collaborating with photographers? What do you love about fashion photography?
I started seeking out models and photographers about 7 years ago. I would go to the thrift stores to put together wardrobe, and it was so cheesy. I had to do this for a while to realize what models and photographers I could work with and how hair and make up read in photographs. I still hate my work, but I am hoping to hate it less and less. I am so very critical about my own work. I pick apart everything. Now, though, after years of these processes, I have been able to pass the information that I’ve garnered on to people I have worked with in the salons I have worked at. I really enjoy being an Art/Creative Director in the photoshoot process. I am not just there to do hair–I want more control and input into the making of these images I attach my name to. Luckily, I think that my boyfriend (Ryan Brett Puckett) is the most amazing photographer I have ever met, so I plan on restarting my whole portfolio with his help.

If you made me a mix tape, what are three songs you would put on it?
Any songs from these three artists:
Thelonious Monk
Billie Holiday
Nat King Cole Trio

What is the future of “Amithyst”?
Hopefully success and happiness for all involved and invested in this new salon! Someday I would love to make a book, but I think that is years down the road. Personally? My goal is to have an agent that will do the work of hooking me up with high fashion models, photographers and designers, so I will continue to aim and focus my energy in that direction. In the meantime, come get your hair done and have some champagne and chocolate!!!

*(Editors Note: A Sacramento Salon that was featured on the Hit Reality TV Show Split Ends!)

Links:
Amithyst

“Try to find your own look, one that has room to evolve but that means something to you. That is the most important thing.”
-Chloe Aftel

After stumbling across Chloe Aftel’s gorgeous photography portfolio, I was immediately drawn to her surreal digital and Polaroid fashion imagery. I wrote her to tell her how amazing she was, and a meeting was arranged one afternoon at Crixa Cakes . We sat for an hour and talked about life, photography, puppies, being in love, and just making it.

Name: Chloe Aftel
Location: Los Angeles & San Francisco
Occupation: Photographer

Why do you love photography?
Good question! I thought that I might be able to take what I loved about movies and put it into still pictures. I love telling stories visually, but to my surprise photography offered me even more satisfying elements.

I found that the quick turn around of photography, the fact that I can have multiple projects going at once and that all of them can be finalized in a matter of days works well with my personality.  I look forward to the surprises that photography provides, mistakes that sometimes turn out to be a lot better than the correct results I intended. As well, I love getting a ‘real’ or unguarded moment. It feels great when you shoot one.

Do you consider yourself to have a style?
Yes, I like to shoot film and Polaroid, which seems to distinguish me a bit off the bat. As well, I am drawn towards subjects with a kind of sensuality and ease, a feeling of intimacy that makes them approachable.

When did you start doing it as your job? Have you ever had a “day job”?
Yes! I have had many a day job and they can be very hard to slog through. As challenging as they can be, they did give me the chance to do my own thing, for which I will always be grateful.

Did you go to school for photography?
No, I taught myself through trial and error, which I feel is the way to go, as I found ways to do things I don’t think I would have learned in school. I really enjoy figuring it out myself.

How do you find inspiration?
Lots of magazines, blogs, movies, driving around, research, books, anything and everything I can find. It’s a good thing to carry a little notepad so you can write down anything that strikes you.

Any recommendations for other aspiring photographers?
Honestly, take everything that comes your way and always be on the grind for work, be it emailing, calling, pitching, nothing is too small. Try to find your own look, one that has room to evolve, but that means something to you. That is the most important thing.

Do you have a favorite shoot?
Actually no. I have least favorite shoots, but not one that matters more than all the others…

What do you shoot with?
Polaroid 690, Hasselblad, Polaroid backs, Holga, Diana.

Prefer film or digital?
Film.

Can you copyright an idea?
I don’t think you can copyright an idea but i think there are unspoken rules and manners about shooting, meaning that you don’t literally copy someone else’s shot. You can use a shot as inspiration, draw upon, make it your own, but to have the same concept, lighting, composition, etc. is ripping someone off literally and that is wrong.

Three songs you would put on a mix tape
Gun Street Girl by Tom Waits
Kashmir by Led Zeppelin
Beethoven No. 9

Chloe Aftel Studio

He is also a very talented Oakland based illustrator, we used to work together at Williams Sonoma. How I miss our afternoons of design production, giggling and chocolate chip cookie eating- it was summer camp at a job. You can see more of his beautiful illustration work here.

Danielle Garrabrants photographed by me, 2008.

Last year through mutual friends, I was lucky enough to meet San Francisco fashion designer Danielle Garrabrants. Since that glorious day, we have done two photo shoots together and both of have were completely successful. Danielle is a hilarious, creative force (the most random things come out of her mouth like, ” I need to sell some clothes. Or start dealing drugs.”) and I love her unique fashion sense. After the success of our most recent photo shoot, (Due Citta Fall 2009) I asked her some questions about fashion, her life, and why she loves what she does.

Name: Danielle Garrabrants & Cadi Storm (Danielle’s Due Citta NY counterpart)
Location: San Francisco & NYC
Occupation: Pattern Maker & Fashion stylist

Fashion design? How did it happen?
I was a frustrated youth (weren’t we all?). Frustrated with my naturally anorexic figure, which has since blossomed, I had to make things to fit me. I also had to make things that said “fuck you, I’m bad ass.” I think that’s why Cadi and I work so well together–we are both kind of Dadaist with fashion. Sometimes we want to make something pretty, sometimes times we want to make people think, and sometimes we just want to make a joke.

Where did the name “Due Citta” come from?
Cadi and I worked together in San Francisco for years. When she moved to New York, we decided to change our label to Due Citta, which means “Two Cities.”

What is your favorite thing to make and why?
I love making dresses. I feel so locked up at work, since I have to stick to patterns and follow rules. But if you give me a dressform and five yards of crappy fabric, I feel free. We like to go with the flow and do what works best, which is maybe not always exactly what we sketched.

Any good Due Citta stories?
All our shows are outrageous. I love having them, despite what they do to me. I get super nervous, everyone is calling me for directions, there are a million things to oversee, and all the while we still have to add finishing touches. I basically turn into a mega-bitch, and Cadi kinda runs shit. We get pretty wasted during our shows. I know that’s not professional. Maybe we should have been rock stars.

What are your favorite things besides making beautiful clothes?
I’m happy participating in any crafting or art related endeavors. Being outside, the beach, the park, or a road trip.

What is the plan for your line?
I’m planning on winning the lottery to fund our entrance into the market place. Until then, we will keep doing our shows and displaying our art. We have done eight shows in the Bay Area, so now I think It’s time to paint the east coast red.

I’m also working on a line of vintage-inspired pieces with my friend Courney Olsson, called “Det Sätt Vi”. We are using recycled materials like sheets, so every piece still maintains that one of a kind flare. See you at Indie Mart soon?

Links:
Due Citta Myspace

Since the launch of Hiss & Hearse, there’s been a lot of Hearsin’ and not much Hissin’ (for anyone who hasn’t caught on yet, it’s a play on the phrase “His and Hers”). So here I am to inject a little male influence up in this joint.

I’ve been back from my trip east for just over a week now. It was an exhausting trip full of shuttling around the state of Pennsylvania to pay visits to my friends in Pittsburgh and my family in Williamsport in an attempt to see everyone I’ve ever known in such a short period of time, during which I was also trying to get some freelance work done. I was so jet-lagged most of the time, I wasn’t even sure if I was speaking English, so it’s a great wonder to me how I landed the job I went to interview for while in the Steel City.

Since being back, Kristin and I have worked on a photo shoot for Painfullyhip.com in Sacramento. Kristin did all of the photography, of course, while I did all of the light disc handling and hunger-induced moaning (note to self: always bring snacks to a shoot). One of the locations where we shot was this kind of imported world antiques store called Tasha’s. Here there was a bunch of Mexican Day of the Dead paraphernalia, including a mariachi suit with which I’m now obsessed. There was no price tag on it, though, which generally means I can’t afford it. Regardless, it looked much like this, only red:

Which reminds me…I’ve often toyed with the idea of sporting a Mexican poncho a la Clint Eastwood in his westerns. People have told me to go for it, but I’m concerned that posing off of a particular culture may offend those a part of it. But, damn, just look at how a poncho looked on this gringo!

Continuing on with the theme of the dead, at our next location, my eyes fell upon–via a show poster magneted to the refrigerator–the best damn band name I could have ever thought up but never did: Dead Western. I inquired about this band and quickly learned that it was a solo acoustic artist who possesses a deep, operatic voice. My interest piqued, I looked into him later on that night and found myself haunted by the bass timbre boiling out from this man’s throat as I listened to his music on Myspace. Recommended listening if low, resonating voices a la Leonard Cohen, Johnny Cash, Calvin Johnson, Tom Waits, etc. captivate you.

Kristin got a new BUST (the magazine, you perv) in the mail the other day and pointed out to me yet another feature in a major magazine touting rockabilly fashions as back in vogue. The article is titled On The Road and features a gentleman named Joseph Plunket (who apparently is a musician with a group called “The Weight“) wearing a gingham button down shirt, slim/skinny jeans, cowboy boots, and the most perfectly pomaded pompadour upon which I’ve had the pleasure of placing my greasy gaze in a long time. It’s as if the stylist for the shoot raided my closet and my medicine cabinet.

Is this classic, cool look now getting the respect it deserves in the “underground fashionista circles” (for lack of a better phrase)? Too often have I heard disparaging remarks directed at rockabillies and their music made by too-cool-too-care-how-I-look indie rock scenester types (I hate to break it to them, but making an anti-fashion statement is still making a fashion statement).

Recently, much to my delight, I have been noticing 1950’s/early 1960’s styles creeping their way into current fashion trends. Take, for instance, a recent DIESEL/DIESEL BLACK GOLD editorial from Flaunt issue 101 entitled “The Loveless” (a reference to one of my favorite movies–an identically titled biker flick, starring Willem Dafoe). Denim, leather, and gravity-defining pompadours appear prominently here as do plaids, cigarette pants, and a little bit of grit and grease, all recalling blue-collar, mid-century aesthetics.

Vice Magazine also recently ran their Global Trend Report 2009, which takes a look at fashion trends city by city, and rockabilly looks are making a comeback in New York.

Keeping with the vintage theme of this entry, I thought I’d also share my first attempt at embroidery! Thanks to my dear friend, Tiffany, I am now equipped with the tools and the know-how to do my own clothing embellishments. Eventually, I would like to stitch some designs onto some of my western shirts; but to start, as a birthday present for him, I embroidered my friend Jose’s initials in vintage tattoo lettering on a plain white handkerchief. The result:

I still have a lot of learning and practicing to do, but I’m pretty happy with it as a first shot.

Also, my mind is currently occupied with thoughts of my trip back to Pittsburgh, where I will be interviewing for a really cool copy writing job at a popular online clothing retailer! Not only that, but it’s been about eight months or so since I’ve seen any of my friends or family back east (with the exception of Rachel and Tiffany who both made their ways out to the Bay Area on separate occasions), so I’m eager to visit with my loved ones. Though, my excitement about this trip is somewhat tempered by knowing I’m going to sorely miss my lovely partner for a period of time.

Oddly enough, during the same afternoon that I booked my flight for my interview, I got two emails offering me work in the Bay Area! One offer was some freelance writing for the company Kristin works for. This I’ve accepted, and I will put the money I earn toward some of my air fare. When it rains, it pours.

The Japanese, as a culture, have a reputation for taking things to the extreme. Their social clubs are no exception. On Sunday afternoons in Tokyo’s Yoyogi park, the Tokyo Rockabilly Club gathers to flaunt their twisting dance moves and foot-high pompadours for curious passersby drawn to this whirling swarm of black leather.

I’m drawn to this group’s apparent ignorance of the golly-gee-aw-schucks, Chuck Taylor-wearing type of rockabilly and their adoption of a darker, more dangerous, more mysterious, motorcycle greaser look. They take a vintage look and slap a thin coat of modern polish on it. This is the same aesthetic I’ve been cultivating for years now. I’ve found my sartorial brethren!

More than just look hard, these cats dance hard. If you look closely at their winklepicker or cowboy boots, you’ll notice duct tape protecting them from getting shredded as they spin, slide, and shuffle on the pavement.  And where can I find those trousers?

I discovered in my brief internet research that the Tokyo Rockabilly Club once boasted an impressive 900 members. Today, sadly, that number has dwindled to only nine!

For those Tokyo ‘Billys still rockin’, I salute you!

As any fan would know by now, this week saw the passing of a music icon, Lux Interior, of The Cramps.  And inevitably, it seems, we have also seen the passing of a great band. Great entertainment. A SHOW. Something to be seen as well as heard. Some people don’t seem to ‘get’ that aspect of music, but I like mine to come with some mystery. I like musicians to have myths surrounding them. I like having an image of the band, or a spectacle, or a style to go along with what the musicians are playing. For me, it completes the package. The Cramps, indeed, possessed the whole package (and I’m sure that in Ivy’s opinion, she possessed Lux’s whole package, too, if ya know what I mean).

I won’t spout off all of the biographical information about Lux Interior that’s been repeated in every news article since his death.  But I will say that this sexual Frankenstein’s influence has trickled its way into my system like an IV of straight strychnine.

In college, I went to THE cool hairdresser in town–a gothabilly woman named Wiggy.  The first few visits, I would describe to her how I’d like my hair cut, which basically was a down-do (unlike my current back-swept hairstyle) with lots of points and angles.  This was also the same time I was dying my hair black. Eventually, then, these haircuts evolved into what we called “the Lux Interior.”  Each time I’d return, Wiggy would great me with a “Hey Lux!”

A hairstyle is not the only thing I stole from this human fly. I’ve been the singer in a number of bands, and I admit to copping his fellating-the-mic move. It’s a great and dangerous act of showmanship. One wrong move and you can step on your mic cable, then out fly your teeth like a chomper full of Chicklets. Not to mention the distorted sounds achieved with this maneuver send daisies up your butterfly.

So, thanks for the music and for the inspiration, you goo goo muck, you! May you not rest in peace, but instead Zombie Dance and Cramp Stomp your way through heaven and hell.

Pretty graphic from an electronic message I received today from Urban Outfitters.

I would like to congratulate President Obama on his inauguration today.  I feel a great weight has been lifted off of the collective chest of all United States citizens, especially of our under- and/or mis-represented denizens who have, for generations, borne more than their fair-share of the load.  How touching it was to see and hear Reverend Lowery, a close friend and colleague of Martin Luther King Jr., speak and rhyme about racial harmony and see to fruition one of Dr. King’s dreams.

I am confident that President Obama will lead this country ethically, with integrity, patience, and transparency, and that his taking office has immediately elevated the world’s opinion of the United States.   However, I will be careful not to place this man on too high of a pedestal to the point where it will obscure my view of his inevitable missteps.  He is human, and we must remember that.   He will make mistakes.  He may do things that I do not agree with.  He may not do things I want him to.  When we blindly follow, we are sometimes lead down a treacherous path.  But I am comforted by a sense that he’s got his heart–and his brain–in the right place, and that he’ll lead us in a better direction.

-Richard Wayne

Love, Kristin

January 20-22 Venus is celebrating with $5 year long subscriptions! Just enter the code: obama09

modcloth is having a 44% off sale on these select cuties.

I am so filled with excitement and hope, thank you Mr. President for making my day.

Adorable graphic by the always witty, Agent Lover